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VimBox

(GitHub supports STL model viewing, you can click on a model file to preview it.)

The VimBox

The Interior of the VimBox

The files in the Button Overlays folder are intended for use with this Input Overlay OBS plugin.

Assembly

Any item, tool or step marked with an asterisk is optional, unless you intend on using your VimBox on PlayStations.

Items

Tools

  • Soldering workstation
  • Wire stripper
  • Tool to insert heat set inserts
  • Lots of solder
  • One long wire for ground
  • 17 female-to-male wires
  • *4 female-to-female wires
  • 2 sets of header pins (unless you get a Pico with headers)
  • *1 set of 4 header pins
  • Breadboard (to solder header pins)

Steps

You will need experience soldering, or to ask a friend for help.

  1. Flash the appropriate image from here using these instructions.
  2. Attach the keycaps onto the switches, preferably all in matching orientation using the pins on the bottom as a point of reference.
  3. 3D print the two models. I used green PLA filament, and the lid took ~2 hours whereas the box took ~4.5 hours.
  4. Lay the lid face down behind the box with the switch holes on the right.
  5. Lay the box face up with the USB output facing away from you.
  6. Insert the buttons and switches into the appropriate holes before soldering, preferably all in matching orientation. The 24 mm buttons will have plastic nuts on the bottom to keep them in place.
  7. Insert the heat set inserts. Put the M3 ones in the top holes of the box and the M2 ones in the smaller holes close to the USB output. A tutorial is available here.
  8. If not already present, solder on header pins to the Raspberry Pi.
  9. If room is available, screw the Raspberry Pi into the M2 heat set insert holes. If not, plug in the USB cable from outside to keep it in place. Drill two 5/64" holes into the VimBox for the 2 rear screw holes of the Pi, and use the M2-0.4×10mm screws.
  10. *Use the breadboard to solder the 4 header pins onto the USB breakout board.
  11. *Attach the female-to-female wires between the pins of the USB breakout board and the Raspberry Pi using this as a point of reference.
  12. Cut, strip and solder the ground wire repeatedly, and attach it to one pin of each button. The 24 mm buttons will have an indication of which pin is negative, and either pin can be used for the switches and 18mm buttons. Make sure that the wires form a chain between the buttons, and that all 17 buttons are accounted for.
  13. For each of your female-to-male wires:
  • Cut off the male end, making sure it’s long enough for the connection between the Raspberry Pi and each button.
  • Strip the male end enough to expose the wire (~1 cm).
  • Solder the male end onto the appropriate button.
  • Attach the female end onto the appropriate header of the Raspberry Pi.
  1. Attach a female-to-male wire to the last ground wire with the same method as above.
  2. *Plug in your Brook converter/Mayflash adapter/etc. to the USB breakout board.

I have SOCD set to left + right = neutral, and up + down = neutral. My buttons are laid out like this (reading order):

Physical Button Button Pin Number
24 mm 1 L2/LT GP09
24 mm 2 R2/RT GP08
24 mm 3 B3/X GP10
24 mm 4 B4/Y GP11
24 mm 5 L1/LB GP13
24 mm 6 R1/RB GP12
24 mm 7 B1/A GP06
24 mm 8 B2/B GP07
Switch 1 LEFT GP05
Switch 2 DOWN GP03
Switch 3 UP GP02
Switch 4 RIGHT GP04
18 mm 1 S1/Back GP16
18 mm 2 S2/Start GP17
18 mm 3 L3/LS GP18
18 mm 4 R3/RS GP19
18 mm 5 Guide/A1 GP20

If dissatisfied with this layout, it can be changed either through the GP2040-CE settings or by physically re-arranging the pins.

About

Fighting game controller with Vim directions.

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